This residential client was provided with a quotation for the replacement and re-installation of a proper decking and waterproofing system. There is water leaking into the home and proper draining systems need to be installed. This report also includes a follow-up service call. Inspection, October 8, 2011:
The client is looking to have both decks re-surfaced and proper drain systems installed. There is moisture getting into the home in the daughters room. There is also dimpling visible on the ceiling and screws were dropping down, those have since been plastered over. Both decks are pooling water and are improperly sealed. The client believes there is stucco below the deck and has questions about damage to it or the foundation during the process. The client is also looking to have new eaves-troughs installed.
Roof Report, November 27, 2011:
I am unable to give as much slope to the decks as the customer would like as the threshold under his doors is only 1" after I rip the old roof off. I plan on using sloped fiberboard around the wall lines as this will only build it up by .5" and give some sort of slope at the walls. As the threshold is only 1" under the door I don't want to use FR board because this will build the roof up too much. Instead, I plan on using the fast and stick 180 base-sheet as this is mechanically fastened and can be used directly on the plywood deck. Along the wall lines the stucco starts 1" above roof line. In order to be able to ensure a good seal I want to put plywood strips along the wall line at the height of 4" to give me plenty to seal to on the walls. To make this look better for the client I would like to use a black metal flashing over my wall line cap-flashing (to make it look more like crown molding, and it will match the metal cap at the top of the wall). The door provides me with a bigger problem. I would like to run my cap flashing up onto the door sil as this will give me more to seal to instead of trying to work under it as it is only 1". As I know using the torch on his door sil presents a real fire hazard, I would like to use a peel and stick 250 cap with the IKO S.A.M adhesive and a detail roller.
Roof Report, November 30, 2011:
We ripped off the larger of the two roofs at the back side of the house. Once the old membrane was ripped off we inspected the plywood deck, the plywood was wet but not rotted out in any spots. After the plywood was inspected we put our plywood strips around the perimeter of the building to allow me the height I need to seal my ply's. Once the plywood was installed we cut fiber board on a 45 degree angle and screwed it along the perimeter to create as much slope as the threshold under the door would allow. Once the fiber board was screwed down we laid out our rolls of fast and stick 180. Then we screwed it down for our first ply of the system and torched the laps to make it all water tight. This morning we lost a couple of hours removing snow and chipping ice. After we got all the snow and ice removed from the roof we primed half of the perimeter. I put on the armourbond flash up the walls and sealed it to the top of the plywood to ensure a strong seal. After I finished the flashing I was able to put down half of the 250 cap sheet on the flats of the roof. Once that was done i degranulated the perimeter and moved all of the customers belongings on the deck to the completed side so I can get a good jump start in the morning.
Roof Report, December 4, 2011:I went to work on the front deck of the house, we ripped off the old membrane and inspected the plywood deck for rotten areas but none were found. As with the back deck the plywood was found to be wet but not damaged in any areas. After we dried the plywood as best as possible, we built the plywood walls around the perimeter to allow me to seal my ply's. Once the wall lines were installed, we used strips of fiber board cut at a 45 degree angle to create as much slope as the threshold around the door would allow. Then we screwed it down. After the fiber board was laid out I was able to lay all of the 180 fast and stick base sheet over all the flats, screwed it all down, and torched all of the laps. Next the plywood wall lines were all primed so I could put my 180 capping on the walls. I was able to cap half of the wall with 180 peel and stick capping, starting from the drain and working out. To make things easier for our next day I torched down my first run of the 250 cap sheet on the flats.
Roof Report, December 12, 2011: This morning we returned to the client's house to continue work on his roof decks. After we finished drying the roof I completed all of the peel and stick capping around the perimeter including under the doorway. Once the 180 capping was complete I finished the flats with the 250 cap sheet, and finished degranulating the perimeter of the 250 cap sheet. I was also able to complete about 40% of the 250 capping along the wall lines. All I have left on this roof is to finish the 250 capping around the wall and put all of the customers furniture back where it was when we showed up. I plan on drying the smaller roof in the morning and then ripping it off first thing.
Follow-up Service Call, March 14, 2012:
Arrived at the site and the client showed us the water damage in both of her children's rooms, however there was no water damage in the bathroom between the two rooms. After inspection of the SBS roof, there were a few blisters starting. These blisters were not attached to any exterior wall or opening in seams, so we suspected that it was moisture underneath the membrane and not a leak from roofing system causing the blister. We discussed with the client that because of the ice on the roof it would be best not to continue the blister repair at this point. Client mentioned that her husband was shoveling the snow off the deck as a preventative measure, which may or may not indicate any attempt to clear the drain. We did suggest that we could conduct a flood test to give the client peace of mind. This would test whether any rain in the meantime would leak from our drain installation. The customer agreed and gave permission for the flood test and remained just inside the home with an open door between us and her. We conducted the flood test and initially there was no moisture coming through where previous leaks occurred. However, after 30 minutes of flooding the roof on deck, the clients nanny told us that there was a water leak in the kitchen, the floor beneath the original leak locations. At this time we turned off the water. As we came downstairs to inspect the new leak, we suspected that the leaks were not caused from a leak in the membrane on the deck, nor was the problem just a leak around the drain area. The leak in the kitchen was substantial and furthermore there was water running down over the back entrance on the exterior wall. After noticing this we went back to the original leak areas (ie. the children's bedrooms) above the kitchen, at which time we noticed that the floor was getting wet in the bedroom directly above the kitchen. We noticed the sound of dripping water while standing in the bathroom between the two bedrooms, client was present when mentioning the sounds coming from inside the walls. It is our conclusion that for this amount of water to penetrate such a large area of the house in such a short time frame the water must be coming from the drain pipe. It is attached to the drain bowl which is enclosed in the wall and exits the exterior wall between the first and second floor (ie. between the kitchen and bedroom directly above). At this point we told the customer that this was not a roofing problem, and that she had a drain problem which would require a plumber. We further advised her that this is not warranty work, any problems to roof assembly that have occurred because of the drain problem would be addressed after the plumbing problem is fixed and would then be chargeable work as our warranty is void if there is an already existing issue outside of the scope of our work. She is also aware to e-mail GRS with the progress and completion of such work.
Roof Report, March 15, 2012:
Arrived at clients home and inspected both drains. First drain inspected while the client poured water down the drain. Fairly steady drip came from seal from the inside of the bowl. The second drain was inspected from open ceiling and the leak was not the bowl itself but the insert attached to the bowl had a horizontal split which was the cause of a substantial leak. We are not certain as to who installed what in this plumbing section. Inserts do need to be changed out. To temporarily fix the leaking we caulked the split on one drain and caulked the ridge of the compression ring on both drains. We explained to the clients that it is a temporary fix until further action is taken on the part of GRS or a plumber. The split could be a manufacturer default or a crack which was then split from freezing water, or it could be due to someone trying to clear the drain with an object. These are just possible reasons for an uncertain situation and speculation based on the fact that the crack was horizontal. We explained that once the deck is dry and a course of action is decided upon, the drains will be repaired and the blisters would be fixed at the same time.
Service Follow-up, April 1, 2012: The following email was sent by the client to our project manager:
I have water flowing into my great-room, over the deck (currently out of 2 spots at a great rate of flow). There are wet spots all along the path likely leading to the drain area in the front. The back deck remains ok, with no drainage, but covered up with the tarp still. The areas fixed on Thursday look intact, but the edges of the repairs are mixed with water and the "fix it material". I have photos and video. This is similar to what happened in Dec after the original remediation on the decks which supposedly stopped the issue. He told me at the time it was likely an interface with the drain issue that he was able to stop with some caulking. Any thoughts or suggestions on stopping this flow and ongoing issue?
Following this email a crew member was sent out to inspect the leaks, the inspection notes are below:
Client indicated the leak is a very small amount of water that only leaks during a heavy rain fall. The amount is about two to three table spoons of water. The leak comes off of a truss. The client has caulked the metal around the balcony on the bottom which has solved prior leaks.
We flood tested on top of the metal where it was caulked and we attempted to flush water up behind the metal. The truss started to get moist. We re-caulked the fastener heads and the old caulking. There may have been pin holes in the caulking. If this doesn't stop the leak then the metal flashing may have to be removed to diagnose the leak further. The roof is wet due to rain and there is rain in the forecast for this afternoon. The client is happy with the trouble shooting and is willing to wait and see if the leak has stopped. There are three buckles that will need to be addressed in the near future. This can be done with ms detail and grey granules, weather permitting.
< End Report > CODE: 11230 Contact Us Call our 24 hour emergency roof repair at 1.780.424.7663. Mail to: 3428 99 Street NW Edmonton, Alberta T6E-5X5. We service all of Alberta including Edmonton, Stony Plain, Spruce Grove, Fort Saskatchewan, St Albert, Sherwood Park, Leduc, Nisku, Beaumont, Lac La Biche, Grande Prairie, High Level, Westlock, Slave Lake, Edson, Drayton Valley, Devon, Camrose, Wetaskiwin, Tofield, Lamont, Morinville, Vegreville, Tofield, Millet, Calmar, Evansburg, Redwater, Onaway, Viking, Athabasca, High Prairie, Valleyview, Fairview, Peace River, Whitecourt, Mayerthorpe and many more rural areas and towns.